It was a strange day. We had driven back from the north east of Portugal, and decided to spend a night in Serpa before returning to our Algarve home. When we ventured out next morning the whole place was deserted, closing down as the virus approached. No possibility of visiting the Museum of Watches, as planned, but we were delighted to find the castle walls still accessible. A grey mist hung over the town, adding to the sombreness of the mood. Gradually it lifted and, for a moment, we were feeling on top of the world.